Thursday, October 31, 2013

Back to Basics: Individual Lash Flairs

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Here I will show you how I apply individual lash flairs. I am going to be using Ardell Knot-Free lash flairs in short, medium and long.

I like the way individual lashes look, since they give very different effects depending on how you place them. I'll have some examples at the end of this post. 
I am going to be placing four longs, two mediums and three smalls, going from longest to the shortest starting on the outside of my eye. This will give an elongated eye shape. However, you can always mix things up like using just one size for extra volume. Or using a short-medium-long-medium-short pattern, with the longest at the center of your eye gives a more opened look. Lots of options with the flairs.

Here's a video if you prefer that format

I am using my clean hand as a palette, if I am working on a client I use a stainless steel palette. I like to take the eyelashes out of the packaging first, since I find that I'm less likely to break them and it goes a bit faster. I place a tiny bit of the lash glue on my hand, since you only need about a pin head sized amount.

 I am going to apply these without any liner on. Placing the lash flairs along at least a thin application of liner does disguise where the lashes are placed, but since I wanted you to be able to see where I placed them, I opted for no liner. Make sure to curl you lashes lightly first and apply mascara. 

 I use a tweezers to carefully pick up the lashes. Grab close to the base so you have more control. Then dip the very tip into the glue. I like to place them pretty wet, but if you're having trouble, try letting the glue get more tacky by waiting about 15-25 seconds.

Carefully place the flair (long) as close to your lash line as you can. Looking down will really help when placing the lash. 


Repeating the steps above, place the next lash (long) close to the first lash you placed, but not too close so that the ends of the lashes look too close together. 


Sometimes the lashes don't sit close enough or are slightly rotated so I use the back of the tweezers to push them down into place.

Here I've applied four long flairs and two mediums.

When I start applying towards the inner part of my eye I find it easier to reach across my face/nose to apply the rest of the lashes. This helps me not to bump the lashes I've already placed and I can see what I am doing better.

Here I am placing another small flair.

As you cans see, I placed the lash flair in the innermost corner too low. I can easily pluck it off and reposition, since the glue is still pretty wet.

After applying all the lash flairs I look directly into the mirror to see if there are any areas where I'd like to add a bit more to & to check if there are any blank spaces.

I am placing one more small flair where I feel like there's a gap.

Here are the finished lashes.

I am using an angled brush (sigma E65) with some black gel liner (Mac Fluid line in Backtrack) to cover the glue.

Then I wipe off the excess mascara off my wand and press it into my real lashes and the false ones to blend.

Here are the finished lashes.

And that's how you put on individual lash flairs!

I have hooded eyes and I lose even more lid space when I smile. As you can see here, wearing lashes really helps in adding extra definition to my eyes.

I think these look better with a thin liner, however I wanted to be able to show the placement of the lashes better.

Face: Smashbox Primer - original 
Urban Decay Primer Potion
MUFE HD foundation - 118
Illamasqua Skin base - white
Ben Nye Powder - Cameo
Nars creamy concealer - Chantilly
Sephora concealer - fair
ELF Mist & Set
MAC sculpt - Shadowy
MAC sculpt - Emphasize
MAC - Desert Rose
Ben Nye - Antique Rose

MAC - Blanc Type
Urban Decay - Naked
MAC - Mylar
MAC - Copperplate
MAC - Concrete
MAC - Carbon
MAC fluid line - Blacktrack
UD 24/7 liner - Perversion
L'Oreal Voluminous mascara- Carbon Black
Maybelline Great Lash - clear
MUFE aqua brow - 25 

Lip Tar in Pretty Boy

Shorts, Mediums, Longs, Mediums, Shorts
 Short, Medium, Long, Medium
 Short, medium and one long
 Short, medium and one long